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Stuff Explained |
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The Bicyclemania
boffins have put some pages together, hope it may be of use to you, we
all fell asleep with them going on & on about spring rates, recoil
settings & quantum theory travel lengths.........! |
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Buying Info |
Forks |
Hardtail |
Disc Brake |
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1 The Main Pivot:
The swing-arm is attached to the frame via the main pivot. It is
usually the largest of the pivots as it is subjected to the greatest
amount of strain. On a four - bar design the shock has it's own pivots
on a separate linkage plate, which isolates the shock from side -
loading.
2 The Swing-arm:
The frame structure that connects the main pivot to the rear axle.
3 The Rear Shox:
Most shocks are oil damped, but they can be either coil or air sprung,
depending on whether you want maximum suspension performance or weight
saving. Air shocks for lightness & coil for better travel.
4 Bearings & Bushings:
These lie inside the pivots and give the suspension its smooth ,free
motion. Bearings give the smoothest action, but are more expensive
than nylon bushings.
5 Suspension Forks:
The travel of the forks should be similar to that of the rear end, in
order to give the bike a balanced ride.

6 Spokes:
Stainless steel spokes are best, as they don't rust. Butted spokes
offer weight savings over plain gauge ones. To tell whether or not a
spoke is butted, run the length of the spoke between your finger and
thumb - if it's butted it should feel slightly fatter at both ends.
7 Wheel Rims:
Box section aluminium is rolled to form a rim. Virtually all mountain
bikes come with 26" rims. That said, many dual / dirt jump bikes are
now coming with 24" wheels as they accelerate faster and are stronger.
Disc - specific rims with no braking surface are also becoming
increasingly popular.
8 Hubs:
An alloy hub body spins about a hollow steel or aluminium axle. Hubs
usually come in 32 - hole drillings but with manufacturers offering
custom wheel packages, don't be surprised to find wheels with a lot
less.
9 Disc Brake:
They come in hydraulic or mechanical versions. Disc brakes offer
superior braking performance over rim brakes, as well as overcoming
the braking problems associated with riding in the mud. Disc brakes
are heavier and cost more than V brakes.

10 Clip-less Pedals:
They attach the rider to the pedals via the shoe cleat. They work in a
similar way to ski bindings and offer the most efficient pedalling
performance. Most bikes costing more than £600 come with clip-less
pedals as standard. |
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What
basic things do I need from a fork?.
Regardless of the spring medium Usually air or steel coil
spring any suspension fork worthy of off - road abuse should
have oil damping with rebound adjustment. External rebound is
preferable, but as long as it's adjustable, the fork can be
tuned to the rider's weight and riding style. Other adjustments
are just a bonus. |
Do I need a travel
adjuster?.
Travel adjusters are not essential but they are the future.
Basically, they allow you to customize the geometry of the bike:
less travel / steeper head angle for climbing, longer travel /
slacker head angel for down-hills. A fork with a travel adjuster
will also enable riders with full suspension bikes to accurately
dial in the match to the front and rear of the bike. |
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Air shock or coil shock?.
Air shocks are a lot lighter than coil shocks with steel
springs. Air shocks can accommodate riders of different weights
by simply changing the air pressure settings. Coil shocks
perform better and are more reliable as there is no air loss.
But air shocks are closing the gap in reliability. |
Which makes a better
frame, Aluminium or Steel?.
The majority of modern mountain bikes are made from various
grades of aluminium, it's light, non corrosive and cheap to work
with. Steel frames are still available, but have been knocked
down to cheaper bikes or high end custom built hard-tails Carbon
fibre and thermoplastic bikes are becoming more popular now too. |
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What
about a lockout?.
O.K. but again not essential. If you do a lot of road riding,
then a lockout is the best thing to have on your bike,
especially if there are hills involved. Other than that, you are
better off with a well adjusted active suspension fork. |
How
much travel do I need?.
About 2" to 4" for a X/C bike riding and 4" to 6" for a
free-ride biking and 6" to 8" for downhill riding, If it has
lockout all the better. |
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