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1 The Saddle:
The saddle is the most important contact point of the bike, get that
wrong and you will know about it. If you are going to do a lot of
miles then a good quality gel saddle is best for the job. However if
you are only going short distances than a race saddle should
do.
2 The V Brakes:
They are now standard on all non - disc mountain bikes. V-brakes are
a massive improvement over the old style cantilevers. And some, even
rival weaker disc brakes for stopping power.
3 The Rear Mech:
Or you can call it the rear derailleur, as it derails the chain from
one sprocket to another. Available mostly in 8 & 9 speeds.
4 The Front Mech:
As with the rear derailleur, the front Mech can also shift the chain
from one ring to another on the chain-set or commonly called the
crank.
5 The Chain-set:
The chain-set / crank acts as a lever to transfer pedalling motion
into forward motion. The standard length on mountain bikes is 175mm.
6 The Chain:
The power generated in the crank is transferred to the back wheel
via the chain. Mountain bike chains come in two versions 8 & 9
speed, the latter being slightly narrower.
7 The Pedals:
Whether resin or alloy bodied, flat pedals make a good starting
point for the novice mountain biker. Toe clips can be added to
increase pedalling efficiency, but most riders searching for
performance go for Spd's and they are also becoming increasingly
popular.
8 Suspension Fork:
Most hard-tails around the £400 mark come with suspension forks, and
if you plan to do some proper off-road riding you will need them.
Heavier than rigid forks, but for the extra control and comfort they
offer. The additional weight is not a problem for most bikers.
9 The Tyres:
Most bikes come fitted with general use tyres as standard. Fat tyres
with big knobbles give increased grip but generate more resistance,
while thinner tyres offer less traction but roll better.
10 The Wheels:
Wheels comprise of three components; rims, spokes, and hubs. A
quality hand-built set of wheels can really transform a bike.
11 The Headset:
This is the bearing system that the steering assembly rotates on.
Most bikes now come with thread-less systems know as Ahead sets.
12 The Stem:
The handlebar stem determines the reach and the rise of the
handlebars. There are two types available; Ahead set and quill, with
quill stems only being found on bikes sub-£200.
13 The Bars:
Handlebars are either flat (Straight bar) or come with a
slight rise (Riser bar). Aluminium is preferred as the
material because it is light and strong. Cheaper bikes come with
steel bars, while the top end bikes usually have carbon-fibre bars.
14 The Shifters:
Twist shift or thumb shifters, it's very much a personal thing. Grip
shifters are ideal for beginners because they are easy to use and
you don't take your hands off the handlebar. While thumb shifters
isolate the shifter from the grip, reducing the chances of
accidental shifting. |
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~ Buying Info
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What basic things do I
need from a fork ?![ROCK-SHOX Judy TT [ one of many in there range]](rockshox_judy_tt.gif)
Regardless of the spring medium Usually air or steel coil
spring any suspension fork worthy of off - road abuse should
have oil damping with rebound adjustment. External rebound is
preferable, but as long as it's adjustable, the fork can be
tuned to the rider's weight and riding style. Other adjustments
are just a bonus. |
Do I need a travel
adjuster ?
Travel adjusters are not essential but they are the future.
Basically, they allow you to customize the geometry of the bike:
less travel / steeper head angle for climbing, longer travel /
slacker head angel for down-hills. A fork with a travel adjuster
will also enable riders with full suspension bikes to accurately
dial in the match to the front and rear of the bike. |
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 What
about a lockout ?
O.K. but again not essential. If you do a lot of road riding,
then a lockout is the best thing to have on your bike,
especially if there are hills involved. Other than that, you are
better off with a well adjusted active suspension fork. |
 How
much travel do I need ?
About 2" to 4" for a X/C bike riding and 4" to 6" for a
free-ride biking and 6" to 8" for downhill riding, If it has
lockout all the better. |
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Mid priced Hardtail or
cheap full suspension ?
If you are on a tight budget the chance's are you will probably
get a much better hard-tail for your money. A cheap full
suspension bike is a world away from a top dollar one. The
cheaper ones are a lot more heavy and no doubt unreliable too. |
Which makes a better
frame, Aluminium or Steel ?
The majority of modern mountain bikes are made from various
grades of aluminium, it's light, non corrosive and cheap to work
with. Steel frames are still available, but have been knocked
down to cheaper bikes or high end custom built hard-tails Carbon
fibre and thermoplastic bikes are becoming more popular now too. |
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