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HARDTAIL
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Buying Info |
Forks |
Disc Brakes |
Full Suspension |
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1 The
saddle:
The saddle is the most important contact
point of the bike, get that wrong and you
will know about it. If you are going to do a
lot of miles then a good quality gel saddle
is best for the job. However if you are only
going short distances than a race
saddle should do.
2 The V brakes:
They are now standard on all non - disc
mountain bikes. V-brakes are a massive
improvement over the old style cantilevers.
And some, even rival weaker disc brakes for
stopping power.
3 The rear Mech:
Or you can call it the rear derailleur, as
it derails the chain from one sprocket to
another. Available mostly in 8 & 9 speeds.
4 The front Mech:
As with the rear derailleur, the front Mech
can also shift the chain from one ring to
another on the chain-set or commonly called
the crank.
5 The chain-set:
The chain-set / crank acts as a lever to
transfer pedalling motion into forward
motion. The standard length on mountain
bikes is 175mm.
6 The chain:
The power generated in the crank is
transferred to the back wheel via the chain.
Mountain bike chains come in two versions 8
& 9 speed, the latter being slightly
narrower.
7 The pedals:
Whether resin or alloy bodied, flat pedals
make a good starting point for the novice
mountain biker. Toe clips can be added to
increase pedalling efficiency, but most
riders searching for performance go for
Spd's and they are also becoming
increasingly popular.
8 Suspension fork:
Most hard-tails around the £400 mark come
with suspension forks, and if you plan to do
some proper off-road riding you will need
them. Heavier than rigid forks, but for the
extra control and comfort they offer. The
additional weight is not a problem for most
bikers.
9 The tyres:
Most bikes come fitted with general use
tyres as standard. Fat tyres with big
knobbles give increased grip but generate
more resistance, while thinner tyres offer
less traction but roll better.
10 The wheels:
Wheels comprise of three components; rims,
spokes, and hubs. A quality hand-built set
of wheels can really transform a bike.
11 The headset:
This is the bearing system that the steering
assembly rotates on. Most bikes now come
with thread-less systems know as Ahead sets.
12 The stem:
The handlebar stem determines the reach and
the rise of the handlebars. There are two
types available; Ahead set and quill, with
quill stems only being found on bikes
sub-£200.
13 The bars:
Handlebars are either flat (straight bar)
or come with a slight rise (riser bar).
Aluminium is preferred as the material
because it is light and strong. Cheaper
bikes come with steel bars, while the top
end bikes usually have carbon-fibre bars.
14 The shifters:
Twist shift or thumb shifters, it's very
much a personal thing. Grip shifters are
ideal for beginners because they are easy to
use and you don't take your hands off the
handlebar. While thumb shifters isolate the
shifter from the grip, reducing the chances
of accidental shifting. |
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BUYING INFO |
 What
basic things do I need from a fork ?
Regardless of the spring medium [usually
air or steel coil spring] any
suspension fork worthy of off - road
abuse should have oil damping with
rebound adjustment. External rebound is
preferable, but as long as it's
adjustable, the fork can be tuned to the
rider's weight and riding style.
Other adjustments are just a bonus. |
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 Do
I need a travel adjuster ?
Travel adjusters are not essential but
they are the future. Basically, they
allow you to customize the geometry of
the bike: less travel / steeper head
angle for climbing, longer travel /
slacker head angel for down-hills. A
fork with a travel adjuster will also
enable riders with full suspension bikes
to accurately dial in the match to the
front and rear of the bike. |
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How
much travel do I need ?
About 2" to 4" for a X/C bike riding and
4" to 6" for a free-ride biking and 6"
to 8" for downhill riding, If it has
lockout all the better. |
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What
about a lockout ?
O.K. but again not essential. If you do
a lot of road riding, then a lockout is
the best thing to have on your bike,
especially if there are hills involved.
Other than that, you are better off with
a well adjusted active suspension fork. |
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 Air
shock or coil shock?.
Air shocks are a lot lighter than coil
shocks with steel springs. Air shocks
can accommodate riders of different
weights by simply changing the air
pressure settings. Coil shocks perform
better and are more reliable as there is
no air loss. But air shocks are closing
the gap in reliability. |
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Mid
priced Hardtail or cheap full suspension
?![Stuff exsplained .... [Hardtail mountain bikes]](images/cannondale%20f3000sl.gif)
If you are on a tight budget the
chance's are you will probably get a
much better hard-tail for your money. A
cheap full suspension bike is a world
away from a top dollar one. The cheaper
ones are a lot more heavy and no doubt
unreliable too. |
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