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FULL
SUSPENSION
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Buying Info |
Forks |
Disc Brakes |
Hardtails |
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1 The Main Pivot:
The swing-arm is attached to the frame via
the main pivot. It is usually the largest of
the pivots as it is subjected to the
greatest amount of strain. On a four - bar
design the shock has it's own pivots on a
separate linkage plate, which isolates the
shock from side - loading.
2
The Swing-arm:
The frame structure that connects the main
pivot to the rear axle.
3 The Rear Shox:
Most shocks are oil damped, but they can be
either coil or air sprung, depending on
whether you want maximum suspension
performance or weight saving. Air shocks for
lightness & coil for better travel.
4 Bearings & Bushings:
These lie inside the pivots and give the
suspension its smooth ,free motion. Bearings
give the smoothest action, but are more
expensive than nylon bushings.
5 Suspension Forks:
The travel of the forks should be similar to
that of the rear end, in order to give the
bike a balanced ride.

6 Spokes:
Stainless steel spokes are best, as they
don't rust. Butted spokes offer weight
savings over plain gauge ones. To tell
whether or not a spoke is butted, run the
length of the spoke between your finger and
thumb - if it's butted it should feel
slightly fatter at both ends.
7 Wheel Rims:
Box section aluminium is rolled to form a
rim. Virtually all mountain bikes come with
26" rims. That said, many dual / dirt jump
bikes are now coming with 24" wheels as they
accelerate faster and are stronger. Disc -
specific rims with no braking surface are
also becoming increasingly popular.
8 Hubs:
An alloy hub body spins about a hollow steel
or aluminium axle. Hubs usually come in 32 -
hole drillings but with manufacturers
offering custom wheel packages, don't be
surprised to find wheels with a lot less.
9 Disc Brake:
They come in hydraulic or mechanical
versions. Disc brakes offer superior braking
performance over rim brakes, as well as
overcoming the braking problems associated
with riding in the mud. Disc brakes are
heavier and cost more than V brakes.

10 Clip-less Pedals:
They attach the rider to the pedals via the
shoe cleat. They work in a similar way to
ski bindings and offer the most efficient
pedalling performance. Most bikes costing
more than £600 come with clip-less pedals as
standard. Most people find that the clipping
in and out systems take some time getting
use too, expect to come off a few times as
well.
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BUYING INFO |
What
basic things do I need from a fork ?
Regardless of the spring medium [usually
air or steel coil spring] any
suspension fork worthy of off - road
abuse should have oil damping with
rebound adjustment. External rebound is
preferable, but as long as it's
adjustable, the fork can be tuned to the
rider's weight and riding style.
Other adjustments are just a bonus. |
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Do
I need a travel adjuster ?
Travel adjusters are not essential but
they are the future. Basically, they
allow you to customize the geometry of
the bike: less travel / steeper head
angle for climbing, longer travel /
slacker head angel for down-hills. A
fork with a travel adjuster will also
enable riders with full suspension bikes
to accurately dial in the match to the
front and rear of the bike. |
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How
much travel do I need ?

About 2" to 4" for a X/C bike riding and
4" to 6" for a free-ride biking and 6"
to 8" for downhill riding, If it has
lockout all the better. |
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What
about a lockout ?
O.K. but again not essential. If you do
a lot of road riding, then a lockout is
the best thing to have on your bike,
especially if there are hills involved.
Other than that, you are better off with
a well adjusted active suspension fork. |
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Air
shock or coil shock?.
Air shocks are a lot lighter than coil
shocks with steel springs. Air shocks
can accommodate riders of different
weights by simply changing the air
pressure settings. Coil shocks perform
better and are more reliable as there is
no air loss. But air shocks are closing
the gap in reliability. |
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Mid
priced Hardtail or cheap full suspension
?![Stuff exsplained .... [Hardtail mountain bikes]](images/cannondale%20f3000sl.gif)
If you are on a tight budget the
chance's are you will probably get a
much better hard-tail for your money. A
cheap full suspension bike is a world
away from a top dollar one. The cheaper
ones are a lot more heavy and no doubt
unreliable too. |
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