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1 The Steerer
Tube:
Most steerer tubes are of the Ahead variety, which means that they
have no thread. Aluminium is the popular material as it saves
weight, while steel ones are used to keep the prices down. Threaded
steerers are only available in steel, and most manufacturers only
offer this option on low - end forks.
2 The Stanchions:
The stanchions (Upper Legs) contain all the internals of the
fork, including the spring medium and damping method. Chromed steel
is the smoothest and most durable material for stanchions, but
treated Aluminium offers considerable weight saving with negligible
loss of performance.
3 The V Brake Bosses:
Most forks have protruding bosses for attaching V - style brakes.
But more and more forks are coming on to the market with - out them.
It's all to do with the massive upsurge in the disc brake markets.
4 Sliders:
These slide up and down the stanchions, creating the suspension
action that allows the front wheel to track over the terrain.
Sliders are connected by a bridge ; this stops the fork legs
twisting, or moving independently.
5 Seals:
The seals do the job of keep in the oil and air, and also keep out
the trail dirt.
6 Crown:
Usually forged from Aluminium, the crown connects the steerer tube
to the stanchions. Bonding the crown to the stanchions is lighter
than using pinch bolts, the downside of which is that if you damage
a stanchion you need to replace the entire upper assembly.
7 Preload Adjuster:
These instantly transform the suspension fork into a rigid one by
locking out Suspension. The bike manufacturer Cannondale even offer
an electronic version with a handlebar switch called E.L.O. (Electronic
Lock Out)
8 Disc Brake
Mounts:
Most forks come with two studs on the back of the left hand
stanchion for attaching disc brakes. The studs are normally
international standard but some manufacturers, such as Manitou, use
the Hayes post mounts, which can limit the type of brakes that can
be fitted.
9 Dropouts:
The front wheel is secured to the fork via the dropouts, these come
in standard quick - release form, 20mm bolt - through, or a
combination of both. |
What basic things do I
need from a fork ?![ROCK-SHOX Judy TT [ one of many in there range]](rockshox_judy_tt.gif)
Regardless of the spring medium [usually air or steel coil
spring] any suspension fork worthy of off - road abuse
should have oil damping with rebound adjustment. External
rebound is preferable, but as long as it's adjustable, the fork
can be tuned to the rider's weight and riding style. Other
adjustments are just a bonus. |
Do I need a travel
adjuster ?
Travel adjusters are not essential but they are the future.
Basically, they allow you to customize the geometry of the bike:
less travel / steeper head angle for climbing, longer travel /
slacker head angel for down-hills. A fork with a travel adjuster
will also enable riders with full suspension bikes to accurately
dial in the match to the front and rear of the bike. |
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 What
about a lockout ?
O.K. but again not essential. If you do a lot of road riding,
then a lockout is the best thing to have on your bike,
especially if there are hills involved. Other than that, you are
better off with a well adjusted active suspension fork. |
 How
much travel do I need ?
About 2" to 4" for a X/C bike riding and 4" to 6" for a
free-ride biking and 6" to 8" for downhill riding, If it has
lockout all the better. |
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