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Fork |
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Buying info
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Hardtail
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Full Suspension
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Disc Brake
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1 The Steerer Tube:
Most steerer tubes are of the Ahead variety, which means that
they have no thread. Aluminium is the popular material as it
saves weight, while steel ones are used to keep the prices
down. Threaded steerers are only available in steel, and most
manufacturers only offer this option on low - end forks.
2 The Stanchions:
The stanchions (Upper Legs) contain all the internals
of the fork, including the spring medium and damping method.
Chromed steel is the smoothest and most durable material for
stanchions, but treated Aluminium offers considerable weight
saving with negligible loss of performance.
3 The V Brake Bosses:
Most forks have protruding bosses for attaching V - style
brakes. But more and more forks are coming on to the market
with - out them. It's all to do with the massive upsurge in
the disc brake markets.
4 Sliders:
These slide up and down the stanchions, creating the
suspension action that allows the front wheel to track over
the terrain. Sliders are connected by a bridge ; this stops
the fork legs twisting, or moving independently.
5 Seals:
The seals do the job of keep in the oil and air, and also keep
out the trail dirt.
6 Crown:
Usually forged from Aluminium, the crown connects the steerer
tube to the stanchions. Bonding the crown to the stanchions is
lighter than using pinch bolts, the downside of which is that
if you damage a stanchion you need to replace the entire upper
assembly.
7 Preload Adjuster:
These instantly transform the suspension fork into a rigid one
by locking out Suspension. The bike manufacturer Cannondale
even offer an electronic version with a handlebar switch
called E.L.O. (Electronic Lock Out)
8 Disc Brake
Mounts:
Most forks come with two studs on the back of the left hand
stanchion for attaching disc brakes. The studs are normally
international standard but some manufacturers, such as
Manitou, use the Hayes post mounts, which can limit the type
of brakes that can be fitted.
9 Dropouts:
The front wheel is secured to the fork via the dropouts, these
come in standard quick - release form, 20mm bolt - through, or
a combination of both. |
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What basic things do I need
from a fork ?![ROCK-SHOX Judy TT [ one of many in there range]](rockshox_judy_tt.gif)
Regardless of the spring medium Usually air or steel
coil spring any suspension fork worthy of off - road
abuse should have oil damping with rebound adjustment.
External rebound is preferable, but as long as it's
adjustable, the fork can be tuned to the rider's weight
and riding style. Other adjustments are just a bonus. |
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Do I need a travel adjuster
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Travel adjusters are not essential but they are the
future. Basically, they allow you to customize the
geometry of the bike: less travel / steeper head angle for
climbing, longer travel / slacker head angel for
down-hills. A fork with a travel adjuster will also enable
riders with full suspension bikes to accurately dial in
the match to the front and rear of the bike. |
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 What
about a lockout ?
O.K. but again not essential. If you do a lot of road
riding, then a lockout is the best thing to have on your
bike, especially if there are hills involved. Other than
that, you are better off with a well adjusted active
suspension fork. |
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 How
much travel do I need ?
About 2" to 4" for a X/C bike riding and 4" to 6" for a
free-ride biking and 6" to 8" for downhill riding, If it
has lockout all the better. |
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