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Stuff Explained |
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![Stuff explained .... [Hardtail mountain bikes]](cannondale_f3000_sl.jpg) |
Buying Info |
Full
Suspension |
Disc
Brake |
Forks |
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1 The
saddle:
The saddle is the most important contact point
of the bike, get that wrong and you will know
about it. If you are going to do a lot of
miles then a good quality gel saddle is best
for the job. However if you are only going
short distances than a race saddle should do.
2 The V brakes:
They are now standard on all non - disc
mountain bikes. V-brakes are a massive
improvement over the old style cantilevers.
And some, even rival weaker disc brakes for
stopping power.
3 The rear Mech:
Or you can call it the rear derailleur, as it
derails the chain from one sprocket to
another. Available mostly in 8 & 9 speeds.
4 The front Mech:
As with the rear derailleur, the front Mech
can also shift the chain from one ring to
another on the chain-set or commonly called
the crank.
5 The chain-set:
The chain-set / crank acts as a lever to
transfer pedalling motion into forward motion.
The standard length on mountain bikes is
175mm.
6 The chain:
The power generated in the crank is
transferred to the back wheel via the chain.
Mountain bike chains come in two versions 8 &
9 speed, the latter being slightly narrower.
7 The pedals:
Whether resin or alloy bodied, flat pedals
make a good starting point for the novice
mountain biker. Toe clips can be added to
increase pedalling efficiency, but most riders
searching for performance go for Spd's and
they are also becoming increasingly popular.
8 Suspension fork:
Most hard-tails around the £400 mark come with
suspension forks, and if you plan to do some
proper off-road riding you will need them.
Heavier than rigid forks, but for the extra
control and comfort they offer. The additional
weight is not a problem for most bikers.
9 The tyres:
Most bikes come fitted with general use tyres
as standard. Fat tyres with big knobbles give
increased grip but generate more resistance,
while thinner tyres offer less traction but
roll better.
10 The wheels:
Wheels comprise of three components; rims,
spokes, and hubs. A quality hand-built set of
wheels can really transform a bike.
11 The headset:
This is the bearing system that the steering
assembly rotates on. Most bikes now come with
thread-less systems know as Ahead sets.
12 The stem:
The handlebar stem determines the reach and
the rise of the handlebars. There are two
types available; Ahead set and quill, with
quill stems only being found on bikes
sub-£200.
13 The bars:
Handlebars are either flat (straight bar)
or come with a slight rise (riser bar).
Aluminium is preferred as the material because
it is light and strong. Cheaper bikes come
with steel bars, while the top end bikes
usually have carbon-fibre bars.
14 The shifters:
Twist shift or thumb shifters, it's very much
a personal thing. Grip shifters are ideal for
beginners because they are easy to use and you
don't take your hands off the handlebar. While
thumb shifters isolate the shifter from the
grip, reducing the chances of accidental
shifting. |
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What basic things do I need from a fork ?![ROCK-SHOX Judy TT [ one of many in there range]](rockshox_judy_tt.gif)
Regardless of the spring medium [usually
air or steel coil spring] any
suspension fork worthy of off - road abuse
should have oil damping with rebound
adjustment. External rebound is
preferable, but as long as it's
adjustable, the fork can be tuned to the
rider's weight and riding style. Other
adjustments are just a bonus. |
Do
I need a travel adjuster ?
Travel adjusters are not essential but
they are the future. Basically, they allow
you to customize the geometry of the bike:
less travel / steeper head angle for
climbing, longer travel / slacker head
angel for down-hills. A fork with a travel
adjuster will also enable riders with full
suspension bikes to accurately dial in the
match to the front and rear of the bike. |
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 What
about a lockout ?
O.K. but again not essential. If you do a
lot of road riding, then a lockout is the
best thing to have on your bike,
especially if there are hills involved.
Other than that, you are better off with a
well adjusted active suspension fork. |
 How
much travel do I need ?
About 2" to 4" for a X/C bike riding and
4" to 6" for a free-ride biking and 6" to
8" for downhill riding, If it has lockout
all the better. |
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Which makes a better frame, Aluminium or
Steel ?
The majority of modern mountain bikes are
made from various grades of aluminium,
it's light, non corrosive and cheap to
work with. Steel frames are still
available, but have been knocked down to
cheaper bikes or high end custom built
hard-tails Carbon fibre and thermoplastic
bikes are becoming more popular now too. |
Mid
priced Hardtail or cheap full suspension ?![Stuff exsplained .... [Hardtail mountain bikes]](cannondale_f3000_sl.gif)
If you are on a tight budget the chance's
are you will probably get a much better
hard-tail for your money. A cheap full
suspension bike is a world away from a top
dollar one. The cheaper ones are a lot
more heavy and no doubt unreliable too. |
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