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HARDTAIL |
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Buying Info |
Fork |
Disc Brake |
Full Suspension |
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1 The saddle:
The saddle is the most important contact point of the bike,
get that wrong and you will know about it. If you are going
to do a lot of miles then a good quality gel saddle is best
for the job. However if you are only going short
distances than a race saddle should do.
2 The V
brakes:
They are now standard on all non - disc mountain bikes.
V-brakes are a massive improvement over the old style
cantilevers. And some, even rival weaker disc brakes for
stopping power.
3 The rear Mech:
Or you can call it the rear derailleur, as it derails the
chain from one sprocket to another. Available mostly in 8 &
9 speeds.
4 The front Mech:
As with the rear derailleur, the front Mech can also shift
the chain from one ring to another on the chain-set or
commonly called the crank.
5 The chain-set:
The chain-set / crank acts as a lever to transfer pedalling
motion into forward motion. The standard length on mountain
bikes is 175mm.
6 The chain:
The power generated in the crank is transferred to the back
wheel via the chain. Mountain bike chains come in two
versions 8 & 9 speed, the latter being slightly
narrower.
7 The pedals:
Whether resin or alloy bodied, flat pedals make a good
starting point for the novice mountain biker. Toe clips can
be added to increase pedalling efficiency, but most riders
searching for performance go for Spd's and they are also
becoming increasingly popular.
8 Suspension fork:
Most hard-tails around the £400 mark come with suspension
forks, and if you plan to do some proper off-road riding you
will need them. Heavier than rigid forks, but for the extra
control and comfort they offer. The additional weight is not
a problem for most bikers.
9 The tyres:
Most bikes come fitted with general use tyres as standard.
Fat tyres with big knobbles give increased grip but generate
more resistance, while thinner tyres offer less traction but
roll better.
10 The wheels:
Wheels comprise of three components; rims, spokes, and hubs.
A quality hand-built set of wheels can really transform a
bike.
11 The headset:
This is the bearing system that the steering assembly
rotates on. Most bikes now come with thread-less systems
know as Ahead sets.
12 The stem:
The handlebar stem determines the reach and the rise of the
handlebars. There are two types available; Ahead set and
quill, with quill stems only being found on bikes sub-£200.
13 The bars:
Handlebars are either flat (straight bar) or come
with a slight rise (riser bar). Aluminium is
preferred as the material because it is light and strong.
Cheaper bikes come with steel bars, while the top end bikes
usually have carbon-fibre bars.
14 The shifters:
Twist shift or thumb shifters, it's very much a personal
thing. Grip shifters are ideal for beginners because they
are easy to use and you don't take your hands off the
handlebar. While thumb shifters isolate the shifter from the
grip, reducing the chances of accidental shifting. |
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 What
basic things do I need from a fork ?
Regardless of the spring medium [usually air or steel
coil spring] any suspension fork worthy of off -
road abuse should have oil damping with rebound
adjustment. External rebound is preferable, but as long
as it's adjustable, the fork can be tuned to the rider's
weight and riding style.
Other adjustments are just a bonus. |
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 Do
I need a travel adjuster ?
Travel adjusters are not essential but they are the
future. Basically, they allow you to customize the
geometry of the bike: less travel / steeper head angle
for climbing, longer travel / slacker head angel for
down-hills. A fork with a travel adjuster will also
enable riders with full suspension bikes to accurately
dial in the match to the front and rear of the bike. |
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What about a lockout ?
O.K. but again not essential. If you do a lot of road
riding, then a lockout is the best thing to have on your
bike, especially if there are hills involved. Other than
that, you are better off with a well adjusted active
suspension fork. |
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How much travel do I
need ?
About 2" to 4" for a X/C bike riding and 4" to 6" for a
free-ride biking and 6" to 8" for downhill riding, If it
has lockout all the better. |
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Mid priced Hardtail or
cheap full suspension ?![Stuff explained .... [Hardtail mountain bikes]](images/bike%20cannondale%20f3000sl.gif)
If you are on a tight budget the chance's are you will
probably get a much better hard-tail for your money. A
cheap full suspension bike is a world away from a top
dollar one. The cheaper ones are a lot more heavy and no
doubt unreliable too. |
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 Air
shock or coil shock?.
Air shocks
are a lot lighter than coil shocks with steel springs.
Air shocks can accommodate riders of different weights
by simply changing the air pressure settings. Coil
shocks perform better and are more reliable as there is
no air loss. But air shocks are closing the gap in
reliability. |
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