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Disc Brake |
How they operate
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Buying Info |
Fork |
Full Suspension |
Hardtail |
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1 The Rotor
or Disc:
 The rotor is
normally manufactured from stainless steel. The rotor acts
as the braking surface for the brake calliper. It
effectively replaces the braking function of the rim in a
conventional brake set-up. Six hole drillings have become
the standard fixing method. Larger rotors give greater
stopping power.
2 The Brake Hose:
On hydraulic
systems the brake hose contains either DOT4 or mineral oil,
depending on the manufacturer's choice. On mechanical disc
brakes the brake hose is replaced with conventional brake
outers and contains a standard brake cable.
3 The Calliper:
The calliper is
anchored to the fork / frame via two fixing bolts. Pulling
on the brake levers pushes hydraulic fluid into the
callipers, pushing the pistons and the pads towards the
disc, creating the braking force.
4 The Fixing Bolts:
Allen and Torx
bolts are the most common method of attaching the disc to
the hub. Always follow the manufacturers guidelines for
installation and torque settings. Be careful not to strip or
snap the heads of the bolts.
5 The Bleed Nipple:
This is where
you get hydraulic fluid into and out of the system via the
bleed nipple.
6 The Piston:
Lightweight
alloy pistons in the calliper are worked by the fluid in the
hydraulic system, or a helix in a mechanical brake, and move
the brake pads towards the rotor. Open systems have
self-modulating pistons that maintain a constant distance
between the pads and the rotor. A closed system and
mechanical system use springs to return the pistons / pads
to the rest position and do not compensate automatically for
pad wear.
7 The Brake Pads:
Just like
normal V brake pads, disc brake pads are available from a
variety of manufacturers. Pads are not usually
interchangeable between different brake systems, so it's
important to get the right ones for your system. You can buy
brake pads with different compounds to suit the individual
needs of the rider or the conditions. Swapping pads can
dramatically alter the characteristics of the brake, so have
a go.
8 Pad Retaining Pins:
Split-pins and
Allen bolts are common, while some manufacturers use small
spring clips on the back of the pads to fasten them securely
in place. They are a very important part of the set-up,
forget to re-place them and as soon as the brake is applied
they will shoot out. |
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WORKINGS OF A DISC BRAKE:
Is based on 3 principals:
1) Leverage
2) Hydraulic multiplication
3) Friction
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As you
can see in the animation, the hand-force is
multiplied by the brake lever. Next hydraulic
multiplication increases the pressure on the disc
brake pistons. (Size difference between the pistons
from the brake lever and - calliper).
When the brake-pads are pushed against the rotor,
the friction between these two and the tires and
road, makes your bike slow down or stop.
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Will I need to buy new brake levers?.
If you buy hydraulic disc brakes, then the system will
come with the levers and callipers. Mechanical
disc-brakes use a conventional brake cable so it is
simply a case of attaching your brakes to your existing
V-brake levers. This option is worth considering if your
shifters and brake levers are all one unit. |
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Why buy disc brakes?.
The main advantage of disc brakes over conventional V's
is the consistency of braking performance. Because the
braking action is taken away from the rim and
concentrated at the disc, the entire system is less
affected by the elements. Mud clearance take on a new
meaning, while buckles and dints in the rims are no
longer an issue. Another plus is that most hydraulic
systems are virtually maintenance free, so leaving the
bike covered in shit will not damage the braking system,
but it will knackered the rest of your bike. |
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