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Remove the quick -
releases.
 Spread a cloth
under the wheel to catch any fallen bearings.
Make sure.
The cone / locknut
combination is tight on one side of the axle, preferably the
drive - side.
Move to the other
side of the wheel.
Hold the cone
stationary with one wrench while removing the locknut by turning
it counter clockwise with the other wrench. Next, thread the
lock-washer and cone off the axle. Hold the axle in place inside
the hub to prevent any bearings from spilling out of the other
side.
Remove the axle from the
other side of the wheel.
Keep track of any
bearings that do manage to drop out, remove all the bearings
from both sides of the hub. Pay attention to the bearing side -
front & rear hub bearings are often different sizes, and some
rear hub's use differently sized balls on each side. Don't mix
them up.
Clean the bearings.
Then look for
rust, pitting or cracks. If any of these exist, your cones and
maybe your hubs might have the same problems and need to be
replaced. Now take a few clean old bearings to your local bike
shop , and buy some new ones. Replacing the old ones back in the
hub is not a good idea, they will never sit right again. They
are quite cheap, buy a few more than you need just in case you
should lose some.
Pop the dust-caps.
Out of the hub with
a flat bed screwdriver. Clean the grease from the bearing races
the inside surface of the hub the cones and the axle. If
you spot any cracks or pits, kiss the parts bye - bye. Roll the
axle on a level surface to make sure it isn't bent.
Reassemble the
hub.
Pack plenty of
thick grease into the races and onto the axle.
Fit the dust-caps back on. Insert the bearings usually 9 per
side in the rear and 10 per side in the front into the
drive side of the wheel. Insert the axle through the hub so the
fixed cone / locknut presses against the bearings you installed.
Insert the bearings on the other side before threading the cone,
lock-washer and locknut back on.
Adjust for proper tightness & examine your wheels and tyres
If you feel a
pulsing sensation when applying the brakes, and the wheels have
been trued, there may be a dent in the sidewall of the rim.
Examine the rim carefully. If you spot a bend, you can try to
straighten it by locking it between the jaws of an adjustable
wrench and bending it back. But do remember the rim will be
weaker and more prone to a catastrophic collapse. 'We
recommend buying a new
rim' |
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FIX IT
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SYMPTOM |
CAUSE |
REMEDY |
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Alex turns with difficulty |
Hub bearing tight |
Loosen bearings |
Axle loose in the hub
or wheel rattles sideways in the frame |
Hub bearings loose
or broken axle |
Tighten bearings
or replace the axle |
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Hubs gritty, sticky or
dirty |
Age and good old mud and
muck |
Strip and re-grease hubs |
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Creaky sounding hubs |
Water in the hubs |
Strip down the hubs /
re-grease |
Rims not true
rubbing against brake blocks |
Accident hit the curd
or poor wheel building |
New rim
or re-true the wheel |
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Spoke broken |
Accident or age or bad
wheel building |
Re-place the spoke |
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FROM NOW ON ! |
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Check
the tyre's for cuts before and after every ride.
Check
wheels for general trueness and loose spokes after each
ride.
Check hubs
for proper adjustment once per month.
Keep your
hubs mud & grit free & they should run smoothly.
Check for
dirt build up on the rim eye-lets.
Never ride
with a split or damaged rim, it may result in a total
collapse. |
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'THE BEST PLACE FOR CYCLING PARTS . . . .
. ON THE INTERNET'
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