 |
BUYING
A
USED
BICYCLE
&
WHAT
TO
LOOK
OUT
FOR |
Click-on
<the numbers |
|
 |
You nearly always get a better bike for less
money if you buy second-hand. First you'll
have to track down a suitable bike in your
size, you'll need to be sure it's not
stolen.
Try local newspapers or e-Bay for a
second-hand bike, the bulk of them are
cheap. You may have to wait for a good one
to come up some local bike shops have
second-hand bikes too.
When
you find what your looking for, take a mate
with you if your technical knowledge is
lacking. Check the bike is in working order
if it's not & it needs work doing to it that
should reflect in the final price. |
 |
1.
~ Crash Damage ~
Rippled paint on the top & bottom tube where
they meet the head tube suggests crash
damage.
Do not buy it
 |
|
|
2.
~ Frame Alignment ~
Try riding the bike hands off, if you are
able to on the test ride.
If the bike consistently veers to one side
the frame could be out of line.
(Cannondale Lefty's all veer to the eerrr
... left!)
Do not buy it
|
|
|
3.
~ Are The Wheels True? ~
Lift the front and back wheels off the
ground and spin them.
Any side to side movement & the wheels may
need truing.
Bulges or cracks in the rims will require a
wheel re-build.
|
|
|
4.
~ Bent Forks ~
Check
the forks are not bent inwards towards the
down tube.
Check
the tops to see if they are aligned.
Look at
the forks head on to see if the wheel sits
equally between the legs.
Check
to see if any oil, dents, or broken seals
are visible.
Check
the value attachments are in good order.
|
|
|
5.
~ Rear Wheel Alignment ~
Check
the seat-stay are not bent and the wheel
sits equally between them.
Check
the rear mech hangers not bent too.
|
|
|
6.
~ Worn Gear Sets ~
Check
for hooked teeth on the chain-ring &
sprockets, they are a sign of wear.
Generally to replace these items could cost
you anywhere from £40 - £100 depending on
the quality.
|
|
|
7.
~ Worn Head Sets ~
Check
the bars, apply the front brake and rock the
bike.
If it
feels loose, the headset is either too loose
or worn.
Lift
the bars to get the wheel in the air, and
turn left and right. Any sticking?.
The
headset is too tight, or worn.
|
|
|
8.
~ Bent Pedals Or Crank ~
Check
the pedals for damage, spin the pedals to
see if they rotate freely and are not seized
up.
Look at
the crankarm, make sure it's tight and feel
the crank or free-play.
|
|
|
9.
~ General Wear ~
Check-out for frayed cables and end caps,
ripped saddle, worn out bar ends.
They
are signs that a bicycle has had some heavy
use.
Look
out for worn tyres & brake blocks too, if
the bike has disc brakes check the pads for
wear.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1 |
4 new
brake blocks or discs from about £15
/ £30 |
|
2 |
New
cassette from about £25 / £45 |
|
3 |
New
chain from about £10 / £25 |
|
4 |
New
grips from about £10 / £15 |
|
5 |
New
crankset or crank rings from about
£45 / 165 |
|
6 |
New
handle-bars from about £15 / £130 |
|
7 |
New
set of tyres from about £20 / £70 a
pair |
|
8 |
Strip
the bicycle down, de-grease and
cleaning then re-build (No charge) |
|
9 |
A new
set of brake and gear cables from
about £ 15 / £25 |
|
10 |
Lubricate the parts that need it |
|
|
